The shoulders are the foundation of a suit jacket. When they fit well, everything else tends to fall into place. When they don’t, even an expensive suit looks wrong. Unlike sleeves or jacket length, the shoulders are notoriously difficult to alter, which makes getting them right from the start essential. Below are the most common types of shoulder fit problems you’ll see in men’s suits, along with what causes them and how to recognize them.
Shoulder Divot AT Sleeve
A shoulder divot looks like a dent or hollow at the point where the sleeve meets the shoulder seam. This usually happens when the jacket’s armhole size and the wearer’s bicep don’t align. Men with more muscular arms often face this issue. The extra tension causes the fabric to pull inward, breaking the smooth line that should extend from the neck to the sleeve. While a tailor can sometimes reduce the effect, it’s usually a sign that the jacket simply isn’t cut for your frame. This can often be fixed by choosing a jacket one size up, which gives more room across the shoulders and upper arms.
Shoulder Sag
On the opposite end, shoulder sag occurs when the jacket is too wide across the shoulders. Instead of lying neatly, the extra fabric droops past the natural shoulder line. The result is a sloppy silhouette that makes the jacket look borrowed rather than tailored. Shoulder sag is easy to see when the jacket collar does not sit flat against the shirt collar. This can make the wearer look smaller in oversized clothing. This is a fit problem that tailoring rarely fixes well, since the entire jacket’s balance is thrown off.
Shoulder Bite
If you’ve ever noticed that your jacket feels tight around your shoulders, you’ve encountered shoulder bite. This issue arises when the jacket is designed too narrowly at the top, causing the fabric to stretch uncomfortably where the sleeves are attached. It results in a noticeable indentation that appears awkward and restricts arm movement. Unlike sagging, shoulder bite gives the impression that the jacket is a size too small. You might be able to make minor adjustments by letting out the seams, provided there is enough extra fabric. However, in most situations, opting for a different size or style is often the more effective solution.
Pointy Shoulders
Some men, especially those with naturally sloped shoulders, run into what’s called pointy shoulders. This happens when the jacket’s built-in shoulder structure doesn’t match the slope of the body. Instead of following the natural angle, the shoulder pads stick upward, forming a visible point. The effect looks artificial and throws off the jacket’s proportions. A skilled tailor may be able to reshape the padding, but the best solution is finding a cut that mirrors your natural shoulder line.
Back Collar Roll
A back collar roll looks like a bunching of fabric just below the collar, at the back of the neck. It often comes from a mismatch between the jacket’s shoulder slope and the wearer’s posture. Men with square shoulders are more prone to this issue because the jacket fabric doesn’t sit smoothly against the upper back. While it might seem minor, a collar roll is distracting and breaks the clean line that a well-fitted suit should have. Tailors can sometimes adjust the collar, but the underlying shoulder slope mismatch often makes it a recurring problem.
Wavy Shoulder Seams
When the shoulder seam shows ripples instead of lying flat, you’re seeing wavy shoulder seams. These wrinkles usually come from construction flaws or a mismatch between the jacket’s cut and the wearer’s shoulders. It can happen even on high-quality suits if the pattern doesn’t suit your build.An easy fix is to add a bit of support, like an extra shoulder pad layer, to fill the area and smooth out the shoulder seam.
Lapel Gaping or Pulling from Shoulder Fit
Poor shoulder fit doesn’t only affect the shoulders themselves. It often extends to the front of the jacket, where lapels either gap away from the shirt collar or pull tightly across the chest. Both problems break the smooth V-shape that makes a suit flattering. If the shoulders are off, the lapels rarely sit as they should, no matter how much tailoring you do to the front.
Andre Emilio give reimbursement for local alterations , for Jacket or blazer, give 50$ .At André Emilio, we take the shoulder fit of a suit very seriously because it defines the entire silhouette. A poorly fitted shoulder can make even the finest fabric look wrong, which is why our process eliminates those issues from the start. Every suit is crafted using precise measurements of your shoulder line, posture, and natural stance.We are Always Avaialbe for you till your suite made is just the perfect fit.Our tailors shape the jacket’s structure so it follows your frame rather than forcing your frame into it. This prevents the common problems of sagging shoulders, tightness, or the dreaded divot near the sleeve head. By building the shoulder to match your unique proportions, we ensure the jacket sits cleanly and comfortably, giving you a sharp, natural look without compromise.
