You’re sitting at a bespoke tailor’s shop, flipping through a swatch book with dozens of fabric samples. The labels read “Super 120s,” “Super 140s,” “Super 180s,” and the prices jump dramatically with each number. Which one do you choose? Does higher always mean better?
Super 120s, 140s, and 180s measure the fineness of worsted wool yarns used in suit fabrics. The number represents how many hanks (560-yard lengths) can be spun from one pound of wool. Higher numbers mean finer fibers that feel softer and drape more elegantly—but they’re also more delicate.
This suit fabric guide demystifies Super 120s meaning and the entire wool grading system. The story begins in 1789 with Spanish merino sheep, evolves through Australian wool mills, and lands in modern tailoring where understanding wool quality grades prevents costly mistakes.
Here’s what competitors won’t tell you: Higher Super numbers aren’t automatically superior. The trade-off between softness and durability matters more than the number on the label. This guide explores those trade-offs, explains fabric weight for seasonal choices, and helps you select the right fabric for your needs.
Worsted Wool and the Super System Origins
What Makes Worsted Wool Special
Worsted wool is the foundation of quality suit fabrics. Unlike woolen fabrics (which have a fuzzy, soft texture), worsted wool goes through a combing process that:
- Removes short fibers
- Aligns long fibers parallel
- Creates smooth, glossy finish
- Produces durable, crisp fabric
This process makes worsted ideal for suits because it holds its shape, resists pilling, and looks sharper than woolen alternatives.
Super Number Calculation Explained
The Super number tells you how fine the wool fibers are, based on an old textile measurement:
Super 120s = 120 hanks per pound
One hank equals 560 yards of yarn. So Super 120s means you can spin 120 × 560 yards (67,200 yards!) from just one pound of wool. That’s only possible with very fine fibers—specifically 17.75 microns thick.
The finer the fiber, the more yarn you can spin from a pound, and the higher the Super number.
Historical Evolution
The Super system has fascinating roots:
1789: Spanish merino sheep introduced exceptional wool quality to Europe 1800s: England’s Bradford system begins measuring wool fineness 1960s-1980s: Super 60s to 80s considered elite fabrics Late 1800s: Lumb’s mill creates Super 100s, coining the term “super” for premium wool Today: Super 180s and beyond available, though not always practical
What was once luxury (Super 80s) is now entry-level, showing how textile technology has advanced.
IWTO Standards and Regulation
The International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) sets standards connecting Super numbers to micron measurements. However, as noted by industry experts at Cutting Room Bespoke, these standards lack strict enforcement.
This means:
- Some manufacturers inflate Super numbers
- Quality varies even within the same grade
- Testing and verification isn’t always rigorous
- Buyer awareness becomes critical
Important Suit Fabric Terminology Myths
Myth 1: Super numbers relate to thread count False. Thread count measures fabric density; Super numbers measure fiber fineness.
Myth 2: Higher Super numbers mean better quality Not necessarily. A well-constructed Super 120s outperforms a poorly made Super 180s.
Myth 3: The “S” indicates wool content The “S” simply stands for “Super.” Blended fabrics (wool mixed with synthetics) still use Super numbers, but pure wool performs better.
What Super 120s actually means
Super 120s represents the mid-tier staple of quality suit fabrics—fine enough to feel luxurious but durable enough for regular wear.
Technical Specifications
- Fiber thickness: 17.75 microns
- Fabric weight: 250-280 gsm (grams per square meter)
- Durability rating: High
- Price range: $40-60 per yard
Why Super 120s Works So Well
This fabric weight provides excellent structure that resists wear:
Wrinkle-resistant: The heavier twist and weight mean the fabric bounces back after sitting or movement.
Durable construction: Thicker fibers (relatively speaking) resist abrasion at elbows, seat, and knees better than finer wools.
Versatile styling: Works equally well for business suits, prom attire, or wedding wear.
Cost-effective: The best value in the wool quality grades spectrum.
The AndreEmilio Edge
At AndreEmilio, we pair Super 120s with half-canvas construction to create custom suits under $15,00 that rival more expensive options. The combination of quality fabric and proper construction delivers:
- Professional appearance for business settings
- Durability for frequent wear
- Premium feel without premium prices
- Perfect for made-to-measure everyday suits
Super 140s-160s: Balanced Luxury
Super 140s: The Sweet Spot
Super 140s steps into luxury territory while maintaining practical wearability.
Technical specs:
- Fiber thickness: 16.75 microns
- Fabric weight: 220-260 gsm
- Price range: $60-80 per yard
Year-round performance: Super 140s works across seasons. The fabric has enough weight for structure but feels lighter than 120s for comfort in warmer weather.
Enhanced sheen: Finer fibers catch and reflect light more beautifully, giving suits a subtle, sophisticated luster.
Superior drape: The fabric flows more naturally over your body, creating elegant lines without clinging or bunching.
Super 160s: Premium Territory
Super 160s enters truly premium fabric territory.
Technical specs:
- Fiber thickness: 15.75 microns
- Fabric weight: 210-250 gsm
- Price range: $80-100+ per yard
Wedding-worthy: The exceptional drape and natural sheen make Super 160s ideal for important events where appearance is paramount.
Noticeable luxury: Anyone who knows fabric can feel the difference immediately—it’s distinctly softer and more refined.
Super 180s and Ultra-Fine Fabric Risks
Super 180s represents the elite tier of suit fabrics—luxury that comes with significant limitations.
Technical Excellence
- Fiber thickness: 14.75 microns
- Fabric weight: 200-230 gsm (ultralight)
- Feel: Buttery soft, almost silk-like
- Price range: $100-200+ per yard
The Luxury Experience
Wearing Super 180s feels dramatically different from standard suit fabrics:
- Weightless drape: The fabric seems to float on your body
- Exceptional softness: Like touching cashmere
- Natural sheen: Catches light beautifully for photographs
- Ultimate refinement: The pinnacle of wool quality grades
Ready to experience the difference? Swatch Super 120s or 140s at Andre Emilio for custom-fit suits that balance luxury with wearability. Our consultations let you:
- Touch and compare fabric grades
- See how different Super numbers drape on your body
- Understand care requirements before committing
- Make informed decisions based on your lifestyle
Book your consultation today and we’ll deliver your perfectly fitted custom suit in just 8 days and deliver it to you in 14 days.
FAQ
What is Super 120s meaning exactly? Super 120s means 120 hanks (67,200 yards total) of yarn can be spun from one pound of 17.75-micron wool fibers. It represents mid-tier luxury—fine enough to feel premium but durable enough for regular wear.
In a suit fabric guide, is higher always better? No. Durability drops significantly after Super 150s. Higher numbers mean softer fabric but increased fragility. Super 120s-140s offers the best balance of luxury feel and practical wearability for most buyers.
What determines wool quality grades beyond Super numbers? Yarn ply (2-ply is stronger), twist tightness, weave pattern, and actual micron measurements verified by IWTO standards. A 2-ply Super 120s often outperforms single-ply Super 150s in durability.
How does fabric weight explanation impact suit performance? Heavier fabrics (250+ gsm) provide better drape, warmth, and durability. Lighter fabrics (200-230 gsm) work for summer but risk transparency. Weight affects how fabric hangs, wrinkles, and performs across seasons.
What’s best for custom suits at AndreEmilio? Super 120s-140s balances luxury feel with practical wear. This range delivers professional appearance, comfortable drape, and durability for frequent use—perfect for custom suits under $2,500 that last for years.
