You’ll find plenty of online lists telling you the dos and don’ts of wearing a suit. Most of them give simple right-or-wrong advice based on current fashion trends. They’re usually meant for people buying their first suit — the basics.
That tips aren’t always wrong, but they often skip over what really matters: the fit. Knowing what makes a suit fit poorly is something many people aren’t sure about. So, we will check them and look at how to fix them.After reading these mistakes, you will never wear a bad-fitting suit again.
Jacket Shoulder Sag or Bite
Check the shoulders first when you try on a suit jacket. If the shoulders are too big, the jacket sags and looks loose. If the shoulders are too tight, you get small pinches or “bites” near the armhole. A jacket should fit cleanly on your shoulders with just a small edge showing past the arm. If it doesn’t fit right here, try a different size or consider a custom suit. Tailors can fix this a little, but it’s often hard and costly.
Button Stance Is Too High and Buttons Pop
The buttons on your jacket should sit just right—not too high or too tight. If the top button is higher than about 1-3 fingers above your belly button and it pulls when buttoned, it creates an awkward look and can even pop open. This makes your torso look shorter and unbalanced. Fix this by trying a different size, brand, or style.
A sport jacket or suit’s chest should always fit the wearer’s chest shape.
Both a chest break and a gaping coat chest are unattractive. A jacket that is too big typically results in a chest gape, and one that is too small typically results in a chest break. In either case, the jacket and chest are separated. Additionally, it may be related to the general position of the shoulder.
How to fix it: Try going up or down a size first if either of these problems is noticeable when putting on ready-to-wear clothing. Instead of attempting to have it tailored, you should think about using custom options to solve the issue if this doesn’t work.
The suit jacket is too long or short
The suit jacket is either too short or too long.
Despite the current trend of shorter jackets, avoid going overboard. If you are still wearing jackets that cover your fingertips, you should also change your outfit!
About 80% of your butt and crotch should be covered by your suit jacket.
The bottom edge of a jacket should typically stop between your thumb’s two knuckles. Given that casual sport coats are typically a little shorter, this rule can be somewhat relaxed when wearing one.
The pants fit too tight or sag in the seat
It’s common for trousers to pull or sag in the seat, depending on your build. The fabric should lie smoothly across your backside without stretching or bunching. If sitting down feels risky, it’s time to size up.
How to fix it: A tailor can easily fix a loose seat by taking it in. If the pants are too tight, size up instead. There’s usually only about an inch of extra fabric available for letting them out.
The pant pockets stick out like wings
This one’s tricky because it’s not always an easy fix. Pockets should sit flat and smooth along your hips. When they flare open, it means your pants are too tight through the seat or thighs. The slimmer the fit, the worse the pocket pop.
How to fix it: Try sizing up first. If the issue keeps happening, you’re probably better off going custom for a cleaner fit.
The jacket collar rolls at the back of your neck
Few things ruin a clean look faster than a collar roll—but don’t worry, it’s fixable. It usually happens when your posture or shoulder slope doesn’t match the jacket’s cut. It’s more common than you think, and easy to overlook.
How to fix it: A skilled tailor can correct the slope or shoulder line to remove the roll. It’s a standard adjustment.
The pants scream ‘90s Chicago banker
A friend once spotted a guy in downtown Chicago rocking a suit straight out of 1994—long jacket, baggy trousers, the works. Avoid that. Your trousers should taper gently through the thigh and narrow slightly toward the ankle. They should rest cleanly on your shoes with just a light break in front, never pooling in the back.
How to fix it: If they’re too loose, size down or have them taken in. Ask your tailor for a single break when hemming. If the length’s off, re-hemming is simple.
The jacket sleeves cover your hands
Your jacket sleeve should end right at the wrist hinge, letting about ¼ to ½ inch of shirt cuff show. That little detail makes all the difference in how sharp your suit looks.
How to fix it: If everything fits except sleeve length, have them tailored. Most sleeves can be shortened or lengthened by about an inch. Anything more calls for made-to-measure.
The dreaded collar gap
This is the ultimate tailoring mistake—and one that’s easy to miss. A collar gap happens when there’s space between your jacket collar and your shirt collar. Your jacket should sit snugly against your neck at all times.
How to fix it: Minor gaps can sometimes be fixed, but it’s not always worth the cost. Try a different size or brand, and if it’s a recurring problem, invest in a custom suit for the best fit.
𝙶𝚎𝚝 𝚌𝚞𝚜𝚝𝚘𝚖𝚒𝚣𝚎 𝚗𝚘𝚠
Why AndreEmilio Suits Solve Fit Issues
AndreEmilio specializes in custom-made suits designed with your exact measurements. That means no shoulder divots, no collar gaps, and no sagging fabric. Each suit is hand-finished with care, ensuring it not only fits perfectly but also feels natural when you wear it.
With worldwide delivery and expert guidance, AndreEmilio makes it simple for men in the USA and beyond to order a suit that truly fits. Whether it’s for a wedding, prom, or a formal event, you’ll get a look that matches your style without the usual fit struggles.
A suit should never feel like it’s fighting against your body. From shoulders to hem, every detail should sit comfortably in place. By choosing a custom suit from AndreEmilio, you avoid the most common fit problems and step into your event looking polished, confident, and ready for the moment.
